Seeing a lot of digital SLRs around these days? No wonder. As digital cameras have gotten more popular and capable, many point-and-shoot users have graduated to the exceptional picture quality and responsiveness of a digital SLR. In this article, we’ll give you the details on what makes a camera an SLR, and what differences in performance and features today’s digital SLRs deliver.
What exactly is a digital SLR?

An SLR, or single-lens reflex, camera usually consists of a camera body and one or more detachable lenses. It’s called “single-lens reflex” because its viewfinder uses the reflection of a 45° angled mirror to let you see your subject through the camera’s lens while composing your picture. The mirror lifts out of sight briefly when you press the shutter button, allowing the image sensor to capture the photo.
Why do people use digital SLRs?

The SLR design tends to deliver more precise, dynamic photos, because it usually offers a better lens, larger sensor size, and more extensive manual controls than typical point-and-shoot cameras. It also provides faster internal processing for greater responsiveness; whereas many point-and-shoot users experience some degree of lag time when they push the button to take a picture, an SLR responds instantaneously to a press of the shutter button. And finally, the ability to switch lenses depending on what your subject happens to be means that SLRs have a degree of versatility unmatched by smaller pocket cams.
Do I need to be an expert photographer?

Not at all — today’s digital SLRs offer easy automatic shooting. In fact, many people who go the SLR route aren’t experts; they just want the gorgeous photos that SLRs tend to produce. Of course, if you aspire to more creative shooting, you’re all set. SLRs have full manual functionality. And with a digital SLR, learning as you go along is extremely affordable. That’s because there’s no need to pay to develop unusable photos — you just try out an exposure setting, check the results, delete the shots that didn’t work, and try again.
What features should I look for?

You’ll want to look for a lot of familiar features common to all digital cameras, such as megapixels , the lens’ optical zoom ability, and LCD size (see Digital Cameras: How to Choose). Below, you’ll find descriptions of features that can be especially important to choosing and using an SLR:

Sensor size
In general, sensors that are physically larger can capture tiny highlights or shadow details better than sensors that are smaller sized but have the same megapixel count. Some of the most advanced SLR cameras even offer “full frame” sensors that have the same dimensions as a frame of 35mm film. All that extra surface area offers superior light gathering ability as well as lower noise levels for cleaner looking images. So if you want the most nuance possible, check for sensor size as well as megapixels (see Details for sensor size listed with each SLR camera model).

Lens mount
Finding a digital SLR that will work with lenses you may already own gives you a lot more options. For example, Canon’s Digital Rebel XSi works with over 60 current and older Canon EF and EF-S lenses. (Remember: Because imaging sensors are usually smaller than a full frame of film, lenses made for film SLRs may have a different effective focal length when used with a digital SLR.)
DSLR kit
DSLR kit
An SLR “kit” includes a lens or two to get you started (top). With a “body only” camera, you’ll need to use your own lenses (bottom). (Canon EOS 5D Mark II shown)

“Kit” versus “body only”
Many digital SLRs are available as kits that include both the camera body and a lens to get you started. The lenses included with most kits make a good basic choice for all-around photography, and can sometimes be a bargain compared to buying a lens and body separately. However, more experienced photographers often buy just the body, then add specialized lenses with long-range telephoto, wide-angle, or close-up capabilities to suit their particular style of shooting.

Image stabilization (IS)
This highly useful feature (called Vibration Reduction by Nikon and SteadyShot by Sony) comes available to digital SLR users in two different ways:

* As an integral part of an IS lens attached to the camera
* Built into the camera body itself

Either way, image stabilization counteracts the effects of camera shake to let you take sharper pictures in low-light settings and at slower shutter speeds. SLR camera bodies with built-in IS have the added advantage of providing stabilization capability no matter what lens you use with them.

Continuous shooting mode
Continuous or Burst shooting mode allows you to press and hold the camera’s shutter button to capture a series of shots in rapid succession. If you’re likely to photograph sports or fast-moving subjects like pets and toddlers, you’ll want to consider an SLR that offers a higher continuous shooting rate. Most digital SLRs let you take full-resolution photos at a fixed rate of 2.5 frames-per-second (fps) or more. Some even allow you to adjust the frame rate to higher or lower speeds to accomodate the situation.

While you’re shooting, the images that you take are temporarily stored in the cam’s buffer memory and then written to your memory card. An SLR with a larger buffer lets you shoot more frames at the highest continuous speed before the buffer fills up. When this happens, your frame rate drops to a much lower speed as the camera sends each picture to the memory card before accepting another photo.

Memory
Like most digital cameras, digital SLRs use removable flash memory cards, such as a Memory Stick®, a CompactFlash™ card, or a Secure Digital® card, to store digital photos. If you already own a number of cards of a particular variety, choosing an SLR that uses the same type of memory can make your selection more cost effective. In any case, most digital SLRs don’t come with any memory included, so you’ll probably want to buy at least a couple of high-capacity cards (2GB or more) — it’s amazing how quickly you can fill up a memory card shooting the kind of large, detailed photos that digital SLRs can capture.

Built-in dust reduction systems
Even the most careful digital SLR photographer can’t prevent dust particles from entering and accumulating on the camera’s image sensor when changing lenses. These particles can cause unwanted spots to appear on the recorded image. Many SLRs solve that problem with a built-in dust reduction system. By using high-frequency vibrations to shake dust free of the image sensor, these cameras help you capture clean, spot-free images. If you do get dust on your sensor, don’t worry — many local photography shops will clean it for you for a small fee.
I think I’m ready for an SLR, is there anything more I should know?

We want you to love whatever camera you get. If you’re thinking of adding a digital SLR to your photographic arsenal, there are two things we suggest you consider:
Erica S and cameras
Crutchfield graphic designer, Erica, enjoys the best of both worlds. Her point-and-shoot camera always goes with her on hiking trips, while her digital SLR makes the scene when she shoots weddings.

Size and weight
If you’re used to a pocket-sized camera, make sure you’re ready for the larger size and weight of an SLR. Most digital SLR owners feel that the improved response time, versatility, and picture quality are worth toting some extra bulk, but you should decide whether that trade-off is right for you.

Framing pictures
With a digital SLR, the viewfinder is traditionally used to frame a shot before snapping the photo. That’s still widely recommended for more stable shots and the precise, through-the-lens image provided by the camera’s viewfinder. However, folks who have been using point-and-shoot cams are often accustomed to framing their shots with the LCD. That’s why many newer SLRs now offer “live view” modes for their LCDs that let you compose your shot on the large screen. Be aware though, using live view mode often means sacrificing the speed and responsiveness SLRs are known for, and introducing the kind of “shutter lag” you find on point-and-shoot models. So we suggest using your viewfinder whenever you can — even if it feels different at first, you’ll have a better shot at capturing the picture you want.

If this sounds fine, you’re well on your way to digital SLR happiness. If you’re still not sure, it may help to spend some time handling one of these cameras. You’ll rapidly get a sense for whether SLR shooting makes sense for you

Audio/Visual Alerts
The most common audio warning is a series of “beeps” or “braps” that grow faster as you near the radar source. Visible alarms can be either a digital display of signal strength or a series of LEDs.

Auto-Muting
Replaces a continuous audio alert with a single alert followed by clicking. This can preserve your sanity during extended radar encounters while continuing to notify you of the presence of radar.

City/Highway Switch
Helps eliminate false alarms from non-police X-band emissions encountered in urban areas. This is usually accomplished by reducing the detector’s sensitivity since the ability to “see” long distances is not critical on city streets.

Dash Mount
Velcro strips usually serve to keep the detector in place.

Dim/Dark Mode
For keeping the detector inconspicuous while driving at night, this feature dims or eliminates illumination on alarms and controls.

“Instant-On” Protection
K-band radar guns have what’s known as “Instant-On” radar. This keeps the transmitter in “hot standby” mode, ready to be activated by an officer when the target is within 200-300 yards. Practically speaking, you can’t really defend yourself against Instant-On radar; if it’s been aimed at you, your speed has been measured by the time your detector gives an alert. However, if the radar was targeted on a car ahead of you, a detector with sensitive K-band reception will alert you. High K-band sensitivity is what allows manufacturers to promote a detector as giving Instant-On Protection.

K-Band
The most frequently used radar frequency band: 24.05 – 24.25 GHz. K-band made its appearance in 1978. The first K-band hand-held radar guns could only be used from a stationary position. Later, a “pulsed” version was introduced that could be used from a stationary or moving vehicle.

K-band radar waves have a relatively small wavelength. At the power level found in police radar guns, K-band has an effective clocking range of about 1/4 mile. Depending upon terrain (around a corner, over a hill, etc.), K-band waves can be detected from a range of 1/4 mile to 2 miles.

Ka-Band
In 1987 the FCC allocated a frequency on yet another band, Ka, for police radar use. Ka-Band incorporates Ka-band, Ka Wide-Band, and Ka Super Wide-Band. With Ka came the introduction of photo radar (also known as “photo-cop”). The photo-cop system works at 34.3 GHz and combines a Ka-band radar gun with an automated camera (see Photo Radar below).

The FCC later expanded Ka-band radar use to a range of 34.2 to 35.2 GHz. This became known as Ka Wide-Band.

The introduction of the “stalker” radar gun raised the stakes in the detection game. Unlike all previous guns, the Stalker can be FCC licensed for any frequency in the Ka-band between 33.4 GHz to 36.0 GHz, and so cannot be picked up by detectors designed only for X, K, and photo radar. Stalker guns are being used in more than half the country.

In response, manufacturers have developed detectors with “Super wide-band” technology that sweeps all of the Ka-band allocated to radar, as well as providing continued protection against X, K, and photo radar.

Ku-Band
Ku-band radar ranges between 12 and 18 GHz. It is used primarily for satellite communications, in both aerospace and broadcasting. It is used primarily in Europe and not seen much in America. In the radar enforcement realm, Ku is set at 13.45 GHz by the FCC and has only recently been introduced to the U.S. for speed detection.

Laser
Police laser uses laser light pulses rather than radar radio waves for speed detection. The laser speed gun has found its way into the hands of state and local police in at least half the country.

The advantages of a laser gun are compelling: the laser light beam is far narrower than a radar beam, allowing more accurate pinpointing of a specific vehicle; and the time needed for capturing a speed reading is less than half a second versus 2 to 3 seconds for radar.

The drawbacks are also important to note: laser guns are very expensive, they can’t be used from a moving vehicle or from behind glass, and accurate aiming requires a tripod or a very steady hand.

Despite initial claims that the energy from a laser gun is not detectable, it is. And as the laser beam moves away from the laser gun, it widens and becomes easier to detect. Vehicle speeds are typically measured at roughly 1,000 feet (1/5 mile); at that distance the laser beam is over 3 feet wide.

Mute or Volume Control
Allows you turn down or turn off a detector’s audible alerts, while keeping the visual alerts.

Photo Radar (Photo Cop)
The photo-cop combines a Ka-band radar gun with an automated camera. A vehicle approaching at or above a predetermined speed will trigger the camera. The photo shows the front of the vehicle, license plate, driver’s face, the date, location, and time. The unit can clock and photograph up to 200 vehicles per hour. Alleged speeders are not stopped. The film is processed and a ticket is mailed to the registered owner of the vehicle, ordering him or her to pay the fine or appear in court.

Photo-cop’s effective range is 120-300 feet and it transmits a continuous signal, which is a plus for radar detectors. The distance at which it can be detected varies depending upon a detector’s Ka-band sensitivity. Better detectors can typically sniff out a photo-cop system 1/4 to 1/2 mile away.

Only a handful of cities use photo radar. Industry sources predicted widespread interest and expanded use, but that has not been the case. Legal controversies along with prohibitive expense have caused officials to stick with more traditional methods of speed detection.

Pulse Radar
A refinement of the original K-band radar gun. Pulse radar can be used from a moving vehicle as well as from a stationary position. Pulse radar guns transmit a burst of energy every two seconds.

Remote Mount
A two-piece detector system in which an antenna is mounted behind your car’s front grille, while the control and display are installed in or under the dash. The two pieces are connected by a cable or wireless transceiver. With a remote-mount you sacrifice a small degree of sensitivity (the higher a detector is mounted, the better) in exchange for low visibility.

Safety Warning System
SWS uses radar to promote highway safety by transmitting a signal to alert you of changing or potentially hazardous road conditions such as highway construction sites, accidents and railroad crossings. All of the radar detectors Crutchfield offers detect SWS signals and include a separate alert signal to distinguish them from radar being used for speed detection.

Selectivity
A detector’s ability to detect police radar while ignoring the presence of such devices as automatic garage door openers and microwaves, which may operate on closely neighboring frequencies. A good radar detector offers high selectivity as well as being highly sensitive.

Sensitivity
A detector’s ability to detect radar. Most radar detector manufacturers increase sensitivity as they add features and move up the product line.

“Stalker” Radar Gun
A hand-held, stationary radar gun that can be set to operate anywhere on the Ka-band between 33.4 and 36.0 GHz. Radar detectors must be able to scan a range of frequencies to detect it. These are referred to as Super Wide-Band Detectors — the latest generation of radar detectors specifically designed to pick up X, K, and the full range of Ka-band frequencies.

Superheterodyne
The term superheterodyne refers to a method of designing and building wireless communications or broadcast equipment, particularly radio receivers in which a locally generated frequency is combined with the carrier frequency to produce a supersonic signal that is demodulated and amplified. Sometimes a receiver employing this technology is called a “superheterodyne” or “superhet.”

Text Display
A text display spells out what form of speed detection you’re up against. Most units with a text display also specify the type of SWS alert.

VG-2/Spectre Radar Detector Detection (RDD)
You can think of VG-2 as law enforcement striking back against radar detectors. VG-2 identifies vehicles with operating radar detectors, by seeking out emitted frequencies from the tuning oscillators of radar detectors. Fortunately, all of the radar detectors Crutchfield offers provide some form of protection against this technology. BEL’s “VG-2 Guard” emits an alert and shuts down when a VG-2 unit is sensed. BEL’s “Shadow Technology” and Cobra’s “VG-2 Undetectable” both shield the detector from VG-2 without interrupting radar and laser protection.

Spectre RDD sweeps a larger spectrum than VG-2 and also covers multiple bands, making it more difficult to elude. It is used primarily in areas where radar detectors are illegal, or to track detectors in commercial vehicles. Only a handful of detectors today claim to be completely invisible to both Spectre and VG-2 RDD.

Visor Mount
Visor clips attach the detector to the sun visor.

Windshield Mount
Suction cups and a bracket attach the detector to the windshield.

X-Band
The first frequency band allocated for police radar: 10.5 – 10.55 GHz. Dating from the 1950s, X-band radar is the easiest to detect because of its lower frequency and higher power output. Depending on terrain, temperature and humidity, X-band radar can be detected from a distance of 2 to 4 miles, yet it can only take accurate readings of speed from a distance of 1/2 mile or less.

Unfortunately, police radar is not the only source of X-band signals. Garage door openers, microwave intrusion alarms, microwave towers, and other high-tech equipment can fool a radar detector into giving off an X-band alert. Filters and redundant sampling are used to combat this “falsing.”

Ampere
The unit of measure for current or electrical “flow” through a circuit. It is commonly abbreviated as “amp” and should not be confused with the word “amplifier,” which is also commonly abbreviated as “amp.”

AWG
American Wire Gauge (AWG) is the standard for measuring the diameter of electrical wires and cables. The smaller the AWG number, the larger the wire. Because of their high current demands, car amplifiers need large power wires to get enough energy from the battery to operate correctly. The more wattage an amplifier has, the larger the wires that power it need to be. 8-gauge and 4-gauge wires are commonly used sizes for powering car amplifiers.

Bridged Power
When you bridge an amplifier, you combine the power output of two channels into one channel. Bridging allows you to drive one speaker with more power than the amp could produce for two speakers. Because of this high power output, bridging is an ideal way to drive a single subwoofer.

If your amp is bridgeable, the owner’s manual will have directions that tell you how. Usually, an amp is bridged by connecting the speaker leads to the positive (+) terminal from one channel and the negative (-) terminal from the other channel. However, you should be sure to consult your owner’s manual before attempting to bridge your amp.

Also, keep in mind that most amplifiers need to see a 4-ohm load when bridged to mono operation. If you want to bridge your amp, you should use one 4-ohm speaker or, if you prefer multiple woofers, wire two 8-ohm speakers in parallel. (Again, consult your manual before operating your amp in bridged mode.)

Bass Boost Circuitry
Increases the output of low frequencies. Usually centered somewhere between 40 and 90 Hz, many amps have variably controlled circuits that allow you to increase the bass level in dB increments (ie. 0-12 dB at 45Hz). Variable bass boosts allow you to adjust the center frequency, changing the character of the bass.

Built-in Crossovers
Crossovers consist of both a high-pass and low-pass filter. Often used to keep high-frequencies from reaching a subwoofer, a low-pass filter allows only frequencies below the crossover point to be amplified. A high-pass filter allows only frequencies above the crossover point to be amplified — useful for keeping low bass away from small speakers, so they can play more efficiently. Crossovers are usually listed as variable or selectable. Continuously Variable means the crossover can be freely adjusted to any frequency between the listed end points. Selectable means that you can choose from several preset crossover points.

Capacitor
A capacitor is an electronic component that stores and releases electrical charge. Heavy-duty capacitors are often used as a buffer zone between your amp and your car’s electrical system. They store up a reservoir of power, which can supply the amplifier’s peak demands (like a kick drum beat) without having to get additional current from the battery. All amplifiers have built-in capacitors, though high-performance amps use larger, more effective ones. External capacitors connect to the power cable just before it reaches your amplifier.

CEA-2006 Compliant
On May 28, 2003, the Consumer Electronics Association published standard CEA-2006, “Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers.” This “voluntary” standard advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier’s RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio. Using 14.4 volts, RMS watts are measured into a 4-ohm impedance load at 1 percent Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) plus noise, at a frequency range (for general purpose amplifiers) of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. Signal-to-Noise ratio is measured in weighted absolute decibels (dBA) at a reference of 1 watt into 4 ohms. This applies to both external amplifiers and the amplifiers within in-dash receivers.

CEA-2006 allows consumers to be able to compare car amplifiers and receivers on an equal basis. Manufacturers who choose to abide by the new standard are able to stamp their products with the CEA-2006 logo that reads: “Amp Power Standard CEA-2006 Compliant.”

Classes of Amplifiers
An amplifier is classified according to its circuit design and the way its output stages are powered. Although some may assume that for every portion of the input signal there is corresponding 100% output from the amplifier, power dissipation (in the form of heat) and distortion of the audio signal are two key factors in determining the efficiency and fidelity of an amplifier. Each class has its own performance characteristics and advantages.

• Class A amplifiers are desirable for the high quality of their sound, but, because of the configuration of its transistors, a pure class A amplifier is inefficient and runs very hot. This is because even when there is no audio signal, the output transistors always have current running through them. The current flowing through the output transistors (with no audio signal) causes the amp to heat up unnecessarily, and “waste” input energy. Most car amplifiers that boast “Class A” circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.
• The output transistors of Class B amplifiers actually turn off for half of every signal cycle. This improves efficiency and saves energy, but introduces distortion during the switching periods.
• By far the most common car amp design, Class AB amplifiers also allow current to run through the output transistors when there is no audio signal, but at a much lower level. A class AB amplifier runs cooler, and therefore, more efficiently than a class A, with low distortion and high reliability.
• Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors rapidly switch on and off at least twice during every signal cycle. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at high frequencies that are typically removed by a low-pass filter.

Discrete Output Devices
There are three basic types of output devices found on car audio amplifiers — integrated circuits, bipolar transistors, and Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors (MOSFETs). An integrated circuit (or IC) is found only on relatively low-wattage (20 watts RMS per channel or less) amplifiers called “bridged transformerless” amps. An IC can not pass enough current to work on a more powerful amp and is not considered a discrete output device.

Bipolar transistors and MOSFETs are found on the output stages of high-powered amplifiers. They are fast enough and can handle enough current to send wattage greater than 20 watts per channel to your speakers. Both of these types of transistors are considered discrete output devices. Usually there are two per channel, but some amps feature as many as four per channel.

Feedback
Feedback is when an electronic circuit’s output signal is used to modify its own input. This is handy in getting rid of noise, for example, by subtracting any signal differences.

Heatsink
A heatsink is a metal structure used in electronics to draw heat away from critical components and dissipate it into the air, usually via cooling fins.

ICEPower
ICEPower is a technology developed by Bang and Olfsen which reduces distortion in Class D amplifiers by rapidly sampling and correcting the output signal in relation to the input signal.

Impedance
The total opposition to the flow of alternating current in an electrical circuit at a given frequency. Impedance is measured in Ohms. Although car audio manufacturers label the impedance of most car speakers and subs at 4-ohms, the impedance of a speaker is actually not a constant. It’s actual impedance changes with frequency and can vary greatly. Therefore, though 4-ohms is the standard impedance in car audio, this standard is more of an average impedance for speakers and amplifiers when driven within the part of the audio spectrum for which they are designed.

Mono Amplifier
Mono (or monaural) amplifiers are single channel amps, well suited for low-frequency applications since the human ear cannot distinguish stereo in the extreme bass range. Also, since mono amplifiers are stable to 2-ohms, you can connect them safely to two 4-ohm woofers (wired in parallel).

MOSFET
Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors have a higher switching speed than bipolar transistors and generate very little heat. MOSFETs offer fast response and high efficiency.

Ohm
The unit of measurement for impedance or resistance. It tells you how much a device will resist the flow of current. If you take two signals of exactly the same strength and send one to a 4-ohm speaker and the other to an 8-ohm speaker, twice as much current will flow through the 4-ohm speaker. In other words, the 8-ohm speaker will require twice as much power (wattage) to play at the same volume.

Power Handling (RMS)
The maximum continuous sine wave power that can be dissipated by a speaker without failure, measured in watts RMS. Most speakers fail for one of two main reasons:

1. A speaker is driven with too much power, beyond its rating, and it overheats.
2. The amplifier is driven into clipping, producing square wave distortion that destroys the driver.

Preamp output
Preamp outputs let you pass the preamp signal to additional amps, saving you from having to run more long patch cords to your receiver or to use unreliable y-adapters in order to hook up all your amps.

Resistance
The opposition to the flow of electrical current. Resistance is measured in Ohms.

RMS Power vs. Peak Power
The amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier produces is called RMS power. RMS (“Root Mean Square”) is a mathematical way of obtaining a useful average when discussing power capabilities. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds. When choosing an amplifier, the RMS rating is the power rating you should pay most attention to.

Also, keep in mind that some manufacturers calculate the RMS power ratings of their amplifiers at different input voltages. For example, an amplifier rated at 100 watts RMS at 12 volts can produce considerably more power than an amp rated at 100 watts RMS at the more typical 14.4 volts.

Stereo manufacturers often display peak power ratings on the face of their products. The peak power rating tells you the maximum wattage an amplifier can deliver as a brief burst during a musical peak, like a dramatic drum accent. The RMS figure is more significant and more indicative of the amp’s long-term performance.

RMS Power at 2 ohms
This spec tells you how much more power your amp delivers when presented with a 2-ohm stereo load. You can achieve a 2-ohm load by using parallel wiring or by using 2-ohm speakers.

Theoretically, amp output should exactly double as the impedance drops from the usual 4 ohms to 2 ohms. However, amp makers use different degrees of regulation on power supplies, which can restrict the actual increase in output.

Less regulated power supplies come closer to doubling their output into 2-ohm loads. An amp with little regulation can achieve higher wattage into lower impedances. An amp with stiffer regulation maintains rated output from your amp as other electrical accessories demand voltage from the battery.

Signal-to-Noise Ratio
Measured in decibels (dB), this spec compares the strength of the desired signal (music) to the level of background noise. A higher value indicates less background noise.

Sound Pressure Level (SPL)
SPL is measured in dB — an acoustic measurement of sound energy. One dB SPL is the smallest audible difference in sound level. 0dB SPL is the threshold of human hearing, while noise measuring 120dB can damage your hearing.

Speaker-level input
Also called high-level inputs, speaker-level inputs accept signal from a receiver’s speaker outputs, letting you connect the amp to a receiver that lacks RCA preamp outputs.

Subsonic Filter
Also called an infrasonic filter, a subsonic filter cuts off extremely low bass (below the range of human hearing) that many speakers cannot effectively reproduce, thereby making the amp’s power supply and output devices, and the speaker, more efficient.

Total Harmonic Distortion (THD)
Amount of change in harmonic content of the signal as it is amplified. A lower figure indicates less change and a more accurate amp. THD below 1% is inaudible.

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